
Epicure and Newcomb
grad, Holly Clegg. |
Chasing Betty Crocker
by Sharon Donovan
photography by Michael DeMocker
It's "sweet rewards," indeed, for Holly Clegg, who is
turning a cupful of positive thinking, a pound of assertive energy
and one mean brownie recipe into her own culinary empire.
As health and fitness gurus try to persuade the public to count
fat grams versus calories or proteins versus carbohydrates, one
argument is abundantly clear-cut to Holly Clegg (N ı77): If food
doesnıt taste good, all the fussing and fuming is a waste. Based
on that premise, and despite the nearly 100 diet-conscious cookbooks
hitting the market each year, the housewife turned author and industry
spokeswoman has bubbled to the top of the kettle.
"Action central" for Clegg is a single-level, five-bedroom
home on a secluded cul-de-sac in an equally secluded neighborhood
in Baton Rouge. But the kitchen in this contemporary scene is not
the average homeıs nerve center.
No way. Not for this wife and mother of three. This kitchen serves
as Cleggıs laboratory, her office and a pod for projects that are
catapulting her into a publishing and consulting empire that might
one day rival that of Martha Stewart. Cleggıauthor of six cookbooks,
correspondent and columnist for newspapers and magazines, frequent
guest on national television talk shows, and champion of a variety
of food-related issuesıis in her element.
Her passion: food.
Her mission: to make low-fat a fact of kitchen life.
Her recipes: something for everyone, a la 1950sıEnchilada Bake,
Glazed Sweet Potatoes, Beef Stroganoff.
The seeds for Cleggıs culinary career might well have been planted
during her freshman year at Newcomb College. The Fort Worth native
learned early that the way to winning friends and influencing people
might be via their stomachsıand their sweet teeth. Cleggıs portable
toaster oven became her entrée to her college years as she
made cookies for roommates and fellow dorm dwellers. In the summers,
she turned her parentsı kitchen into her own space as she catered
parties for friends.
Cleggıs days in the kitchen might have ended with her 1977 graduation
from Newcomb with a BA in English, except for a post-graduation
trip to Europe, where she enrolled for a stint at Le Cordon Bleu
in London. That credential got her an interview with the general
manager of the posh Petroleum Club in Houston. She convinced him
that he needed her newfound expertise; she laughs now at the memory
of how she must have bowled him over with sheer enthusiasm. Perhaps
out of self-defense, he created a job for her in special activities.
"He told me later that although he had agreed to meet me,
he had no positions available and, literally, had no intention of
hiring anyone," she says. That has been a kind of template
for the events of the last two decades. It was the first of dozens
of doors she has opened by the sheer force of persistence.
Cleggıs least-favorite word is "N-O. Itıs so negative,"
she says with a mock-glowering facial expression, exaggerated to
match the emotional effect it has on her. But as the word has done
for many inveterate positive thinkers, it strikes a nerve that invariably
triggers a feverish campaign to elicit the opposite reaction: "Yes-s-s.
Now, thatıs better," she says, intoning the single syllable
with a energetic, hissing sound.
That can-do attitude has spirited her into self-publishing her
own cookbook, writing two best sellers for Random House and doing
numerous stints as a columnist and contributor to magazines and
newspapers. Along the way, she has made guest appearances on national
television and radio talk shows and invaded the strongholds of corporate
America, including a major retailer and food-industry icon.

Brownies are but one small taste in the varied fare of Clegg's
"Sensational and Simple" recipe booklet. |
Leaping over the obstacles has taken Clegg along a circuitous routeıthat
always seems to revolve around the kitchen. After moving from Houston
to Baton Rouge and marrying lawyer Michael Clegg, she worked as
a caterer for a few private clubs until she opted to concentrate
on raising a family. But the catering bug gripped her again, and
one of her clients, the Sternberg family, then owners the Godchaux
department store chain, made her an offer she couldnıt refuse. They
commissioned her to write a cookbook, and From A Louisiana Kitchen
was published in 1983. That would be the base from which Clegg launched
a career in cookbook-writing. There have been six along the way,
including two subsequent books for the Maison Blanche department
stores, which had acquired Godchaux: From Mr. Bingleıs Kitchen,
a collection of recipes for children, named for Maison Blancheıs
snowman mascot, and The Devilıs Food, with a heart-healthy
section. With each new completed project she toured the chainıs
stores to promote the books with autograph signings and cooking
demonstrations. She learned firsthand the most important rule of
marketing: If you donıt blow your own horn, no one will.
With that lesson firmly understood, fate intervened when Maison
Blanche was bought by Mercantile Stores Inc., a retailing conglomerate
with no interest in publishing. But that didnıt stop Cleggıwhose
answer to the perceived rejection was to advance to the next treacherous
level of publishing, the only area more difficult than finding and
keeping a publisher: self-publishing.
With a $30,000 investment, her husbandıs encouragement and the
highly respected Pennington Biomedical Research Center in Baton
Rouge lined up to perform the all-important nutritional analyses,
she published 5,000 copies of A Trim & Terrific Louisiana
Kitchen in 1993. Clegg promptly loaded them into her Chevy Suburban
and started to hawk them at bookstores around the region, a promotional
trail that translated to a rigorous schedule of book signings and
appearances on local television talk shows. On a whim, she sent
a demo tape to NBCıs "Weekend Today." It led to a cooking
segment that became the first of dozens of appearances. With each
one, she sold more booksıbut only after she talked a national distributor
into getting them into bookstores across the country. That was 130,000
books ago. It didnıt take long for her success to catch the attention
of a mainstream publisher. Random House promptly signed her to a
two-book deal. Trim & Terrific American Favorites came
out in 1996, and Trim & Terrific One-Dish Favorites followed
in 1997. Together, they have sold close to 100,000 copies.
In tandem with her book-writing routine, Clegg also has become
a regular contributor to such magazines as Cooking Light,
and a frequent contributor to Eating Well, Shape and
the Los Angeles Times Syndicate.
She wedges those assignments between book tours, which most recently
had her thumping 15 cities consecutively. Those were grueling weeksıexcept
that, true to Cleggıs characteristic door-knocking rule, she was
able to pry open yet another door. Long a fan of the Betty Crocker
reduced-fat cake mixes, Clegg had incorporated them into her recipes.
For a year, she had been on the phone with officials at General
Mills in an attempt to engage them in a promotion of her books.
Inconclusive talks with various levels of marketing mavens elicited
few, if any, encouraging results until she took matters into her
own hands. When it came time to line up cities for a book tour,
she advocated including MinneapolisıGeneral Millsı headquarters.
While she was in town, Clegg talked the executives into allowing
her to make a presentation. A deal began to fermentıbut not before
they rejected her pitch the first time.
"A few months later, I called them back and I told them they
were really missing a great opportunity," she says. This time,
luck and timing were on her side. Since the initial meeting, several
layers of corporate executives had shifted, and the layer Clegg
sifted through finally was in the position to respond.
"Iıve come to realize that it takes an average of at least
a year to have anything happen in corporate America," Clegg
sighs with stalwart resignation.
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